Among the cathedrals of European football, few places occupy a space as singular as Belgrade’s Rajko Mitic Stadium. Known universally as the Marakana — a nickname borrowed from Brazil’s iconic arena and worn with the kind of defiant pride that defines Red Star Belgrade — this is a stadium where football is not entertainment but identity. For visiting supporters, the Marakana offers one of football’s most authentic and emotionally charged matchday experiences. It is not comfortable. It is not quiet. It is unforgettable.
A Brief History of the Marakana
Opened in 1963 with a capacity that once exceeded 110,000 — a match between Red Star and Partizan in 1975 drew an officially recorded crowd that some estimates place even higher — the Marakana has witnessed everything Yugoslav and Serbian football has produced. The 1973 European Cup quarterfinal against Liverpool. Dragan Dzajic’s left foot. The 1991 European Cup final triumph over Marseille in Bari, celebrated here as if it happened on the pitch. The stadium was renamed Rajko Mitic Stadium in 2014 to honor the club’s legendary striker, but everyone in Belgrade still calls it the Marakana. Everyone always will.
The stadium’s current capacity is approximately 53,000, reduced from its peak by safety regulations and the conversion of standing terraces to seating. But the reduction has not diminished the intensity. If anything, the enclosed design and steep stands concentrate the noise in ways that larger, more modern stadiums cannot replicate. When Red Star’s Delije ultras are in full voice — and they almost always are — the Marakana feels like a living thing, breathing and roaring and demanding total commitment from every player on the pitch.
The Delije: Serbia’s Most Feared Ultras
You cannot understand the Marakana without understanding the Delije. Formed in 1989 from the merger of several smaller supporter groups, the Delije (which translates roughly to “Heroes” or “Brave Ones”) have been the heartbeat of Red Star’s support for four decades. Their choreography is legendary — massive tifos that cover entire stands, pyrotechnic displays that light up the Belgrade sky, and coordinated chanting that makes 53,000 people sound like 100,000. They occupy the north stand, and from their section, the flags never stop waving.
The Delije’s relationship with the club is complicated and deep. They have been involved in club politics, protested ownership decisions, and at times been the most powerful voice in Red Star’s decision-making. For away fans, understanding this context is important: the Delije are not performing for visitors. They are expressing something genuine, something that has survived wars, sanctions, and the dissolution of the country Red Star once represented. Respect the culture, and you will be left alone. Disrespect it — by filming excessively, by gesturing toward the north stand, by treating the experience as a tourist attraction rather than a football pilgrimage — and the response will be swift and unambiguous.
Away Fan Experience
The away section at the Marakana is located in the southeast corner, separated by high fencing and a heavy police presence. Visiting supporters typically receive an allocation of 800 to 1,500 tickets depending on the competition. Entry procedures are stringent: passports are checked against tickets, and a thorough security screening follows. Arrive at least one hour before kick-off. After the match, away fans are held for 45 to 60 minutes — this is non-negotiable and enforced strictly by Serbian police. The delay is tedious, but it is also safety protocol that has been refined over decades. Bring a portable charger, accept the wait, and use the time to reflect on what you just experienced.
Getting to the Marakana from Belgrade city center is straightforward: Tram 3, 5, 6, or 7 from Slavija Square stops within a five-minute walk of the stadium. Matchday traffic around Autokomanda, the neighborhood that houses the Marakana, is legendary — leave early, walk from the tram stop, and do not expect to find parking anywhere within a kilometer of the ground. A practical note for visiting supporters: Serbian stadium regulations prohibit the display of any flag or banner that references Kosovo, and political gestures of any kind will result in immediate ejection and possible detention. The Marakana is a football stadium, not a political platform, and the club’s stewards enforce this distinction with zero tolerance. Accept it, respect it, and immerse yourself in the football — which is what you came for in the first place.
Sources: FK Crvena zvezda, Delije archive